Melness, a Crofting Community on the North Coast of Sutherland"

Dr. James Coull
Scottish Studies, 7, (1963).

Used by Kind Permission of Dr Coull

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Looking out over the Moine Plateau towards Ben Hutig - Photo © Iain Morrison

When the picture finally becomes known in detail through the investigations of the first Crofters Commission in the last decade of the nineteenth century, Note 3 Click Here it shows the usual prevalence of small men associated with the society of extremes of the West Highlands: in the Melness district were 90 crofts, from 1 to 6 acres in arable extent, the average being only 2 to 3 acres. In all, it was a situation of obvious land hunger. The crofts were grouped in 13 townships (Fig. 1), but most of them were in groups of 2 to 4, and only Skinnid, Talmine and Midtown had over 10 crofts. All the crofts of the district shared a common grazing of over 10,000 acres which extended some five miles, westward on the Moine plateau; and in addition Midtown, Skinnid, Port Vasgo and Achininver had small township commons of their own. Skinnid also had some cultivated land on the common - the old lazy-beds which were held in run-rig are still visible. The crofts, townships and common grazings are unaltered to-day, although the way of life of the people has greatly changed.

As almost everywhere, the standards of crofting husbandry here have never impressed favourably. The insecurity of tenants under the tacksman system still discouraged progress at the end of the eighteenth century, although by this time potatoes had become the main crop, and much seaweed was carried up from the beach to supplement manure as fertiliser; indeed seaweed was so valuable that trips were made by boat to the island of Eilean Roan and up the Kyle to collect additional supplies. However, in 1840, croft land was still in poor heart - and it was unfenced and generally undrained, and never rested from a potatoes - bere - oats rotation: the bere yielded only about four-fold and the oats two-fold (N.S.A. 1845: 179). Again at the end of the nineteenth century, the frequency of corn marigold (See Picture Below) and charlock (See Picture in Sidebar) in the corn was remarked (Edwards-Moss 1888: 80) - also the fact that most of the work was done by women.

Corn Marigold in a field at Melness - Photo © Iain Morrison Memories of the early years of this century record practices which have now completely disappeared. Thus hay was cut by the crofters on the township in Skinnid, and divided into heaps, and each crofter had to select his own one while his back was turned; it was also the custom of at least some of the crofters at this to break in some of the outrun within their crofts in winter with the spade - an exceedingly laborious task with the stony compacted soils. It was frequent too for two neighbours to team up and each provide a horse for a plough pair and bere was grown till the inter-war years.

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Additional Information and Images

Charlock or Field Mustard - Photo © Iain Morrison

Charlock or field mustard with its Latin name: Sinapis arvensis is a troublesome annual weed found in arable land. Charlock also occurs on wasteland and roadsides. Charlock was still abundant in cultivated areas in the 1950. Charlock generally flowers from May to July but flowering may begin as early as April in plants that germinated the previous autumn. Successive flushes of germinating seeds flower through the summer as plants mature. Plants are self-incompatible and cross-pollination is performed by a variety of insects. Seed is set from August onwards.

The Moine or Sutherland Flow Country Photo © Iain Morrison

The Moine Thrust Belt is a linear geological feature in the Scottish Highlands which runs from Loch Eriboll on the north coast 190 km south-west to the Sleat peninsula on the Isle of Skye. It takes its name from 'a'Mhoine', a peat bog in northern Sutherland. The thrust belt is a zone between an extensive landscape of rolling hills over a metamorphic rock base to the east and more rugged, terraced mountains with steep sides sculptured from weathered igneous, sedimentary and metamorphic rocks to the west. Mountains within the belt display complicated layers and the width of the zone varies up to 10 km. Often, summits of hard rock cap softer sedimentary rock layers visible on lower slopes. Ben More Assynt, in the centre of the belt, is a typical example that rises from a glen of limestone caves up through sandstone terraces to a quartzite summit cap. The discovery of the Moine Thrust in 1907 was a milestone in the history of geology as it was one of the first thrust belts discovered. The formation has since been re-interpreted many times. Eventually, the Moine Thrust corroborated tectonic plate theory in that, during the Caledonian orogeny of the Silurian period, Scotland was compressed as a European plate thrust westwards over a thrust fault and above the ancient Lewisian Gneiss on the Laurentian Plate.