Melness, a Crofting Community on the North Coast of Sutherland"

Dr. James Coull
Scottish Studies, 7, (1963).

Used by Kind Permission of Dr Coull

To help you use these pages of this Study on Melness there are the following links - "yellow text" Click to check the References page and Maroon text with Mouseover Popup explanations of words and terms.


Portvasgo Flagstone Strata - Photo © Iain Morrison

Although the problem facing the community in this corner of the Highlands in the nineteenth century was largely that of insufficient land, it was not this alone which ultimately led to the disintegration of the old way of life; the change involved had many components, and the Melness district shows several variations from the general Highland trend.

Thus in Tongue parish, population almost doubled in the period 1755 to 1831 (Fig. 2); by the late eighteenth century, seasonal migration to work on the Lowland harvests had begun (O.S.A. 1792: 529), and by the middle of the nineteenth century the landlord was aiding emigration to Canada (St. John 1884: 80); and contacts with the outside world were also being increased by the summer migration to the East Coast fishing.

Tongue Parish Population 1755 to 1961  © Dr Coull Design © Iain Morrison 2006 Census figures suggest that the crash which followed the Potato Famines here was less severe than in most of the West Highlands, for the population remained steady in Tongue parish from 1831 to 1871 (Fig. 2) and only after this did the decline begin which is still unchecked to-day.


Seasonal and permanent migration were attempts to adjust to the new economic conditions of the nineteenth century, but there were also efforts to adjust internally.

These consisted in part of fishing and rearing the new sheep breeds already discussed; in addition quarrying of slate and flagstone was active at Port Vasgo in 1792 (O.S.A. 1792: 518), and also later at Midtown, but this had been virtually discontinued by 1840 (N.S.A. 1845: 179), having proved uneconomic. Some kelp was made in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries (about 20 to 30 tons per year), but it collapsed in the 1820's and none was made after 1832 (N.S.A. 1845: 180 ).

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Additional information and images

Portvasgo Flagstone - Photo © Iain Morrison

Flagstone, or flag, is a type of generic flat stone, usually used for paving slabs or walkways, patios, fences and roofing. It may also be used for making memorials, headstones, facades and many construction projects. It is thought that the name derives from Old Norse flaga meaning slab. Flagstone is a sedimentary rock that is split into layers along bedding planes. Flagstone is usually a form of a sandstone composed of feldspar and quartz. The material that binds flagstone is usually composed of silica, calcite, or iron oxide. The colour of the rock usually comes from these cementing materials.

Kelp - Photo © Iain Morrison

Kelp are large seaweeds (algae) belonging to the brown algae (class Phaeophyceae) and are classified as the order Laminariales. During the Highland Clearances, many Scottish Highlanders were moved off their crofts, and went to industries such as fishing and kelping (producing soda ash from the ashes of kelp). At least until the 1820s, when there were steep falls in the price of kelp, landlords wanted to create pools of cheap or virtually free labour, supplied by families subsisting in new crofting townships. Kelp collection and processing was a very profitable way of using this labour, and landlords petitioned successfully for legislation designed to stop emigration. But the economic collapse of the kelp industry in northern Scotland led to further emigration, especially to North America.