Melness, a Crofting Community on the North Coast of Sutherland"

Dr. James Coull
Scottish Studies, 7, (1963).

Used by Kind Permission of Dr Coull

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Achuvoldrach Ferry Roundhouse looking over the Causeway to Tongue with Watch Hill in the distance - Photo © Iain Morrison

Roads were a feature of the new order, and began relatively early - they were progressing well by 1792 in Tongue parish (O.S.A. 1792: 527); by 1840 there was a post office at Tongue (N.S.A. 1845: 180), to which Melness was connected by a ferry across the Kyle. Mail was taken thrice weekly to Thurso, and twice to Golspie by a coach which also carried passengers. In the nineteenth century too began the coasting traffic with "shop boats" from Orkney, which speeded up commercial exchange, although in 1883 the main medium of trade were smacks from Caithness which called sporadically at Tongue, whence goods had to be carried to Melness across the ferry. The last trading smack called in 1932, for they were ousted in the inter-war years by land transport.

Local artisans still flourished in the earlier nineteenth century in the parish - there were carpenters, masons, shoe-makers and smiths (N.S.A. 1845: 177) and there seems to have been at least one of each in Melness: freer exchange in the factory age has eliminated most of these - there is only one builder and one shoemaker now. Mills at Dalnafree in the Strath and at Talmine ground the home-grown grain, but these had gone out of use by 1902.

Talmine Corn Mill Ruins - Photo © Iain MorrisonIn the decline of the old community life, formal education has played a part. Melness had its own school by 1790, and in 1840 English was generally understood by the younger people (N.S.A. 1845: 177), and although the older members of the community still speak Gaelic as a first language, it was finally superseded as such among the school population between the wars.


Melness to-day

In Melness to-day, the decline of the crofting way of life is very apparent: the usual symptoms - neglected croft land, decreased cattle numbers, and a top-heavy population structure are all present. Apart from the crofts (with their insufficient economic basis for a livelihood now), virtually all the employment is in services. At present (1960) the total community strength is some 170: i.e. those who have a house or a croft in Melness, and who regard it as home; but about 60 of these are outside the district, and most will certainly never return apart from holidays. There are in all 65 homes in the townships now, and 11 of these are cottars, of the crofters, only 28 can be said to be actively working the land, and the system now is geared to the rearing of sheep for market.

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Additional information and images

Fram Tied up in Farr Bay - Photo © Courtesy of John P Macdonald

The Fram - at the pier in Farr bay. The Dunedin is in the foreground and the Fram in the background. The Fram was built in Fraserburgh in 1893 at Thomas Sim's yard. The Fram's official number in Schooner Register is 119054. It is listed as having one deck and one mast and was rigged as a Sloop. The Fram had the following dimensions: Length -53 feet and 7 tenths: Bredth 17ft and 2 tenths: Depth to Hold was 5 feet and 6 tenths. It had two bulkheads and no water ballast. The Fram Sailing Vessel was registered to Hugh Mackay who was appointed Managing Owner, and taking advice under hands - Hugh Mackay and John Munro - dated the 15th April 1912. All resident in Talmin and owning all 64 Shares. The vessel was first registered in 1893, but no earlier information is available at present. The Fram displaced 22.96 Tons. The Gross tonnage was 23.49 less deductions of 5.54 giving a total usable registered tonnage 17.95 Tons.

The Registry closed on the 26th January 1918. The Ship was stranded in Talmine bay, on 2nd december 1917 and became a total wreck. Advice received from receivers of Wrecks Tongue and managing owner of the vessel. It is recorded that the Certificate was lost with Vessel.

Melness School overlooking Talmine and the Pier - Photo © Iain Morrison

Melness School built by the Duke of Sutherland. It was designed with a dual purpose as a Church and School. It had a balcony at one end of the building. Initially it lay empty as the community didn't want to use it but later it was taken over and used as a School but never as a Church.