Melness, a Crofting Community on the North Coast of Sutherland"

Dr. James Coull
Scottish Studies, 7, (1963).

Used by Kind Permission of Dr Coull

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The ruins of Moine House - on the Melness to Hope road - overlooking the Peaks of Ben Loyal - Photo © Iain Morrison

Nearly all other work is in service occupations. There are four roadmen who maintain the Melness road, and also a part of the main road along the north coast, from Kinloch to Hope; occasionally two or three other crofters get employment on the roads, too. The only other full-time worker is the shopkeeper, and part-time there are two postmen and one maildriver; and for the school there is one janitor, one cleaner, one cook and one driver. Also, there are three teachers, - the minister and a nurse, none of whom are natives of the district.

Although there are forestry plantations in North Sutherland, there is none near enough to be within daily travelling distance, and none of the Melness crofters are employed in it. The district is also unfavourably placed for the tourist trade, being off the main road; to date only two crofters cater for summer visitors, although some caravans are brought to Talmine.

More significant for the district than these home wage earners are those who have gone away to find work. There are about 30 of them, mostly single people, but also some with families. There are only 5 now in the Merchant Marine, the last being scattered throughout Britain and engaged in a variety of work.

The houses of Melness are all crofter-built; most have only single storey although some have two. A very few have roofs of the heavy Caithness slate, but most now have materials brought from further a field - asbestos slate and tarred felt. A water scheme now serves the whole district and all now have electricity. There is also a shop, a church and a little used community hall.

Fuel still consists largely of peat; all those who are physically able cut their annual supply in banks on the Moine, and it is brought to the houses by lorries hired from Tongue. Formerly, there were peats within the Melness district, and although still worked at the north end, they are virtually exhausted. Coal now supplements peat, especially with the older people, despite the freight costs.

Numbers on the school roll show that community decline has not reached a hopeless stage-there are still 30 children at the three-teacher school, although they have to go to Dornoch or Golspie in the south-east of Sutherland for secondary education after reaching the age of twelve.

The story of Melness over the last two centuries shows a common crofting theme: a struggle to adjust to a new order which has had very sparing success, as is shown by the repeated mention of debt, poverty and destitution. 8 At no time in this period has Melness ever attained any real prosperity and it still lacks prosperity-and social equilibrium-to-day.

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Additional information and images

Melness Post Bus - Photo © Iain Morrison

The Bus is a 1952 Bedford KZ with Spurling C7FM body.

Part of  peat Stack with good black coal like peats - Photo © Iain Morrison

Peat forms when plant material, usually in marshy areas, is inhibited from decaying fully by acidic and anaerobic conditions. It is composed mainly of marshland vegetation: trees, grasses, fungi, as well as other types of organic remains, such as insects, and animal remains. Peat layer growth and the degree of decomposition (or humification, transformation to humus) depends principally on its composition and on the degree of waterlogging. Peat formed in very wet conditions accumulates considerably faster, and is less decomposed, than that in drier places. This allows climatologists to use peat as an indicator of climatic change. The composition of peat can also be used to reconstruct ancient ecologies by examining the types and quantities of its organic constituents.

Under the proper conditions, peat is the earliest stage in the formation of coal. In many countries, including Scotland, where trees are often scarce, peat is traditionally used for cooking and domestic heating. Stacks of drying peat extracted from the Moine and other areas can still be seen. More importantly Peat fires are used to dry malted barley for use in Scotch whisky distillation. This gives Scotch whisky its distinctive smoky flavour, often called "peatiness".