Parish of Tongue, County of Sutherland

I - Topography and natural History

Topographical Appearances:

The general aspect of the parish is mountainous. In topographical character, however, it is divided into two districts, distinct from each other. The first embraces all that is peculiarly alpine, and is the principal part of the parish as to extent, population, culture, and beauty. It lies towards the west, and consists of the great valley of Tongue, formed by the arm of the sea already mentioned, with the streams which flow from the interior into the head of it. On either side of the bay, two Mountain - ranges, rising abruptly and boldly from the ocean, stretch along its whole length, and continue taking nearly a parallel direction, till interrupted by a third range, stretching from east to west, which consists of the mountain of Ben Laoghal and its arms. The whole constitutes a semicircular chain of hills, apparently continuous, and gives to the valley the form of a spacious amphitheatre. The western range, commencing with Ben Hutig, which is 1345 feet high, is for some miles of nearly an uniform height, and somewhat monotonous, till it reaches its southern extremity, when it suddenly terminates in the huge mountain of Ben Hope, 3061 feet high.

The eastern range is a series of round hills, not very lofty, rising above the bay sometimes abruptly, but in general receding so gently, as to afford scope for considerable cultivation on their sides. The Ben Laoghal range is the most picturesque. This noble hill, the queen of Highland mountains, occupies the central point of the whole semicircular chain; therefore, from its position as well as from its romantic outlines, it is the most prominent and striking object in the whole scenery. At the southern extremity of a low extensive valley, it starts up majestically to the height of 2508 feet, presenting towards its base an expanded breast of two miles in breadth, and cleft at its top into four massy towering and splintered peaks, standing boldly aloof from each other. These gradually diminish in height, one after the other. The highest stands proudly forward to occupy the foreground; the rest recede a little, as if each were unwilling to protrude itself, from a conscious inferiority to its, predecessor. As a graceful finish to its outlines, it stretches forth an arm on either side, as if to embrace condescendingly the other mountain ranges, which may well acknowledge it as chief, and which may readily be fancied as doing it homage.

On a summer morning, or after a sweet summer shower, when the transparent mist is reposing on its bosom, or coiling among its peaks, the appearance of this hill is very beautiful, and often singularly fantastic. Within this great chain, there are various objects which constitute marked features in the scenery of the district. Amongst these, the Kyle occupies a prominent place, so studded with islands at its mouth, that, from some points of view, its connection with the ocean seems wholly intercepted. Towards its centre, the point of Tongue and a small island adjacent thereto, tend farther to charm and relieve the eye, by breaking in upon the continuous sheet of water. Another interesting and conspicuous object is the promontory of Castle Varrich. It consists of a small hill range, running south and north, rising gradually from the low ground at the foot of Ben Laoghal, and terminating at its northern extremity in a bold rock of considerable altitude, which is washed at its base by the water of the Kyle, and has its conical summit surmounted by a fine old ruin, which imparts a pleasing effect. Altogether, the scenery of this part of the parish is much and universally admired. The hand of man has undoubtedly done somewhat to embellish it; but little, very little, to what might be effected. Even Macculloch, with all his antipathy to the north, has admitted, that, were the Moine on west side of the Bay, to some extent planted, this place would not be exceeded in beauty by many parts of the Highlands.

The second or eastern division of the parish is rather tame and monotonous. In the interior, this is partially relieved by lochs of various sizes, which are scattered with profusion in every direction, and the ground, moreover, is of a softly undulating character; the rocks being clothed with an almost unbroken surface of verdure and of heath. Towards the sea-coast, the country becomes craggy and fretted-like, uninteresting in its general aspect, and apparently barren. Yet in the midst of this district, when more closely examined, there will be found numerous little glens, bearing a rich soil and a large population.